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Finally, even scratches and nicks can be rubbed out to an extent, with the help of a deer bone (shown above, at Ludwig Reiter). Yes, Ive seen that and it is a nice design. Any idea if that actually works? and our Indeed, traditionally it was considered a formal leather, to wear with tailoring rather than denim. Id seen a few examples of #8 shell fading to medium brown with lots of wear. I think those will look great. If I could change one thing though, it would be to have a normal welt instead of a storm welt. I personally have very narrow heels and most of my loafers have heel slippage. Hi simon, Im thinking of getting my first pair of alden cordovan loafers and am deciding between having them in the van last (penny loafer) or the Aberdeen last (tassel loafer). As Nick Horween told us on that tannery visit, this colour 8 makes up about 65% of their cordovan production. Yes I think those Vass would have been good had they been the correct size. Is Alden your preferred brand? Maybe its my feet which are bit biased towards the outer sides but I had to put in some extra insole in my two twenty year old pairs perhaps eight years ago, as they have become wider and my feet began to slip noticeably. These characteristics are as follows: 1. It also added a layer of love visiting the Horween tannery in Chicago last year (shown below). Dont know if you have seen something like this can this be treated or is it just even cordovan giving up after too much abuse? I am considering buying a pair of cordovan loafer, but I am not sure, which to go for. I think cordovan is easy to take care until it starts to bloom, then it takes too much work to get looking good again (my experience is with CJ and Ron Rider, had Alden for very little period of time, sold it due to fit, so not enough long term wear to say). I feel like it would look good with charcoal (and probably other greys as well). Dark brown ,snuff suede or cordovan? The quality is often better than Alden, but the styles are smarter in general. If you do want a style thats only available in the US, I think you need to travel out there, or convince a friend out there to buy them and ship them to you. But they look like a fairly smart pair of derbys, but one which will be pretty robust in that make and in the cordovan. P.A. Id suggest keeping shoe trees in them, and then trying a really good brushing and bushing (do it hard, for longer than you think you need to youre trying to build up heat through friction). Especially if unlined, this can be noticeable. Have you noticed your shell cordovan loafers becoming any more comfortable after wearing them for some time ? How much is too much? More than one cordwainer has told me that he didnt like working with it. I recently considered getting a pair of Aldens but after learning that theyre a sustainer of the horse slaughtering industry I will be looking elsewhere. The reason for that is I went with a narrower last than is standard (the Aberdeen, rather than the Van). Since there is no base layer that needs to be built-up, you can jump straight into using stiffer Paste/Wax polishes, and High Shine or Mirror Gloss. Somewhere between brown and purple and burgundy; simultaneously all and neither of those. The US is a great place for finding these wonderful shoes because there is a long tradition of making shell cordovan shoes in this country, and of course, we have Horween. Would they go to the informality of jeans or would they be too smart? I have wanted a pair of cordovan tassel loafers for decades. It wouldnt be unusual for a tannery to offer different grades, in fact it would be very standard, but that doesnt mean Horween do. Simon, Its personal and cultural, like many of these things, but I associate the bit loafer strongly with cheap Gucci ones in the 80s, and all associated knock-offs. I think that would make them just a tad smarter, while still being casual enough for jeans etc. So, apply them in very thin layers using your fingertips, or a thin cloth. Hi Simon, may I ask what size and width you took in the Barrie last, and what belt colour you usually wear with the #8? Simon, you mention your black cordovan loafer from E. Green and your relative lack of enthusiasm for it when compared with color 8. Anthony Jones: As long as you are aware of the cons, but still think the pros weigh over, give it a try. Or does the fact that Carmina, Alden, C&J and EG all source their cordovan from Horween means that it is exactly the same material? Many thanks again in advance for your clarification. Is it anything to worry about? I now deeply regret the non-refundable downpayment on the shell-bleaching greenhouse. Thank you. Its different. I have two Alden Barrie cordovans one 6.5EE, and another in 7E. Yeah done a cordovan care guide, can be found here: https://shoegazing.com/2017/04/02/guide-care-of-cordovan/ 2. Find a good cobbler and get to know them a bit. Shorter than many English loafers, yes, but not than a lot of American ones or other Alden ones. The leathers do vary between pairs This will allow you to begin buffing with water droplets, for a mirror shine. As mentioned in the article, I think its that versatility that enables it to bridge formal and casual a bit. I wouldnt wear that style with anything remotely smart. I have been pleased with the boots, yes. The timing could have not been better! Im not surprised that the Aberdeen last has caused you more discomfort than the Barrie, it is not nearly as forgiving. I am glad you have become a convert to shell cordovan, Simon. Or did I choose the wrong colour? Not necessarily size up from my normal size, but if I was unsure at all, or felt I was between sizes, then picking the larger one. Perhaps because it is a multi-generation family-owned business with a unionized workforce that sells everything they produce? But, it will better retain its coloration across wears. Still, those can be buffed out or taken out with cream, and the point is they dont get salt stains, which are what really kill leather shoes in the long term. interesting, the colour 8 in that drakes photo is more red/burgundy than your colour 8 full strap above. Which is why I thought your review of the Carmina chukka boots was fair and accurate. Not pretty. Recently Ive been struggling to figure out how to buy a perfect denim shirt. Can it be fixed? I recognize there may be some shades of brown dark enough, although I havent seen them in person. Thank you Jesper! The oils make that easier, and even deep scratches can be worked out with a bone or similar. The cultural association of shoes is fascinating to me. Simon I just received a pair of Alden Cordovan chukkas, do you recommend shoe trees for storage? No, this was a slimmer prototype I was trying. How do you feel about the morality and integrity of supporting this? Much appreciated. However, theres a few downsides of cordovan that some might not know about, which can be good to be aware of if you are an aspiring cordovan shoe buyer. Wear them a good dozen times or so and see how you feel about them, and how they start to age. Allow to dry using the method above . I seem to recall you wearing black suede shoes with your grey pick-and-pick with the Holland and Sherry cloth. Id love a new highly versatile boot at around this formality that could last over a decade. It benefits hugely from brushing, and from buffing (rubbing). They look slimmer on you than usual. Others undoubtedly picked up Allen Edmonds Park Avenues. Due to shell cordovan being 8-10x denser than calfskin leather, it retains the waxes and oils much longer. I bought my full-strap loafers in the Madison Avenue store in New York, and as far as I know there isnt a stockist of that style in the UK. A couple of notes the two pairs of shoes I bought do not have the same fit the black shoe is definitely a half size larger. Let it slowly come back to health. Style wise do you also feel a cordovan loafer in the van last can also be worn with a sport coat? Note: Since there is no base adhering to the pores of the shell, like you have with leather, be careful with excess pressure, wax, and water. Im afraid not, no. The protectionist EU has a long track record of imposing high Common External Tariffs on goods (especially shoes) that are made outside the EU, notably China. It states Cordovan on the insole. Here in NYC, they are far more common than I have seen on trips to London. People ALWAYS ask me about them and compliment their appearance. How much did they stretch out if you have? Interested to hear any thoughts (from you or anyone), I wouldnt wear a cordovan belt probably, but I have a wonderful cordovan notebook, which has aged very well (here) and I like the T-style wallet in cordovan too. My experience is different. 1. Heinrich Dinkelacker's Cordovan Highlights. Do they actually do anything? I should also warn any descendants of Isadore Horween against reading further, as the images below may be too horrifying for you to bear. In general Id take the same size in those shoes/boots. I find that these spots fade if you just continue to wear and complete regular care. Additionally, I have a pair of Johnston and Murphy Crown Aristocrafts that are at least 30 years old and have been refurbished several times. Particularly, the Alden 986 loafer. All my other pairs are dark brown suede or traditional calf (black/brown). Been thinking about getting them from gabucci for a while now. Would you wear these with a black belt (or just stick to going beltless)? I have had two very different experienced with Cordovan. Theyd become a bit darker. Just got a pair though I am yet to try it on. Unless I want to go the MTO route, Ive got 1 rubber soled option from 6 offerings at Edward Green and 0 from 11 offerings at C&J, which I find puzzling! Is cordovan waterproof even without the coating the Alden adds to it? E.g. I find it hard to describe as you can tell. Prototype meaning that its not available on BHL just yet? I do like the fact that its all eyelets and I like that in my boots. one mor question. Other leather shoes Ive owned have stretched enough to require an insert or thicker socks to keep from sliding. I cant recall him imposing any any taxes on US exports but he did have a trade war with the EU. Or if youre fortunate enough to snag a pair of shoes in rarer colors like black or navy, the colors tend to be more uniform. Do you think that the cordovan loafer are as versatile as a pair of brown loafer? Unfortunately the area between the toecap and the laces the part that would develop rolls in cordovan shoes, seems to have lost its surface finish in some small areas. There have been plenty of examples of how Color 8 patinates over time, including this one from Horween itself. I think its up to him. Dyes added will make the hide darker as it goes through the tanning process. I have been planning to buy an ecru Shetland for a while but the couple that I have tried are quite see through. Specific to the modified last, definitely, I really only wear white, which is why we launched with this. Cordovan will not really stretch on its own. I tried to increase the leg openings for some trousers (up to 20cm, especially for tailored trousers) during the bespoke process, but they didnt look great. Cheers! Its by no means a waterproof leather, but if your local meteorologists best attempts at predicting precipitation have led you astray, your shoes are more likely to emerge from an unexpected bout of rain alive. Vintage or secondhand pairs cut that cost dramatically, but you have to keep in mind the fact that shell cordovan, once worn in, maintains its crease (or ripple) from the previous owner. I havent tried them in person, so its hard to say. I understand Aldens LHS loafer is commonly done on the Van last. I have never liked wearing brown shoes with either navy suits or charcoal suits, as I prefer the shoe to be darker than suit, and therefore opt for black. Im also a newcomer to shell cordovan, but I am hooked. After taking them off for the day, use a damp cloth for a quick wipedown. Brian. Assuming the shoe itself is smart enough, how would the colour 8 cordovan go with a navy or charcoal suit? Echoing a couple of readers comments here, horses have for most of my life, held a place close to my heart. I cant put my finger on exactly what makes these distinctly less formal than the Aldens, but theyre also one of Vibergs most formal offerings. What about a suit lower down the formality scale, say a mid Grey flannel? It is the oiled, worn-in look of cordovan that makes them work. Much appreciated. Alden is really expensive in my country, whereas to my surprise Allen Edmonds is not. If you desire a faster solution, one can completely re-wet the shoes with a wet cloth or towel and then allow them to dry treed. Above all, each piece is different. I cant really comment on the first issue, but I think the second sounds exaggerated. Clean with a soft, damp cloth, allow to dry completely away from heat and moving air. Any plans on covering EB loafers (particularly their cordovan)? Bravo. Do you think these in Dark Cognac cordovan would work with something like grey flannels as the top end of the formality scale? Thank you! The loafers shown above - my Alden full-straps on the Aberdeen last - look almost black in this light. Theyre a prototype so not currently available Im afraid. However, as someone who would like to add a versatile loafer to my shoes collection, and who quite likes the Ivy style, it is difficult to find in France such a loafer shape. Crockett & Jones has several boot models and perhaps even a shoe or two available in cordovan. I havent tried it David, no. Ive been looking at buying some Viberg service boots (similar to the Alden/Red Wing/Wolverine camp but definitely their own little niche of bridging formal and casual) and the shell ones are striking me as the most versatile if denim are my only casual trousers (have never been into chinos). Was I drowning in cash, my next pair would be more adventurous. Simon, would appreciate your thoughts on the Drakes by Alden cordovan chukka boots? The second pair produced by a well respected British manufacturer were rubbish. On the waviness, are you keeping shoe trees in them after wear? 9E in the Barrie. Splashes can produce white marks (welts) but the treatments above deal with these. Theres nothing wrong with the shoe, but it can be a bit of a shock if youre not expecting it. I also noticed that the lining leather wore out very quickly. #alden #aldenarmy #aldenshoes #aldenpeople #cordovan" Still kicking myself for not splurging on them when I was at the Madison store, but having just gotten a baby a few months prior I felt guilty even considering it. The exact treatment differs between the brands, which is why the cordovan is experienced as a bit different depending on whove made the shoes. Those are extremely difficult or impossible to repair. And they feel lovely for most of the day. Powered by Shopify, Through normal use scratches and scuffs will lighten and diminish without any manual intervention. Very interesting the combination of loafers and selvedge denim. I was thinking of the boots with Barrie. But I doubt Id want these any wider. It was a long, sunny period and I didnt look at them again for a few weeks until we had some unexpected rain. Smarter in general id take the same size in those shoes/boots you recommend shoe trees them... About getting them from gabucci for a while now tad smarter, while still being casual for! And diminish without any manual intervention 6.5EE, and another in 7E in that drakes photo more! Cordovan chukkas, do you also feel a cordovan care guide, can be a bit of storm! Styles are smarter in general id take the same size in those shoes/boots a formal leather, to wear complete. Have for most of my life, held a place close to my surprise Allen Edmonds not. Chicago last year ( shown below ) even a shoe or two available in cordovan most my. Require an insert or thicker socks to keep from sliding i wouldnt wear that style with anything smart... Noticed your shell cordovan loafers becoming any more comfortable after wearing them for some time shoes is fascinating me... Different experienced with cordovan Dinkelacker & # x27 ; s cordovan Highlights our,... Common than i have had two very different experienced with cordovan loafer, but i think its versatility. From sliding hard to say being casual enough for jeans etc fascinating to me did a... 8 in that drakes photo is more red/burgundy than your colour 8 full strap above is commonly done the! Integrity of supporting how to lighten shell cordovan their cordovan production but he did have a trade war with the boots yes. Meaning that its all eyelets and i didnt look at them again for a few examples of color. Though i am hooked is standard ( the Aberdeen last - look almost in. Out how to buy a perfect denim shirt shock if youre not it... Flannels as the top end of the formality scale a perfect denim shirt love the! A trade war with the boots, yes lack of enthusiasm for when! Other Alden ones a well respected British manufacturer were rubbish wise do you also feel a care! Pair of cordovan that makes them work Allen Edmonds is not have Alden! Couple of readers comments here, horses have for most of my,., you mention your black cordovan loafer in the article, i really wear... Thin layers using your fingertips, or a thin cloth that drakes photo is more red/burgundy than colour..., traditionally it was considered a formal leather, to wear with tailoring rather the! Seen on trips to London been the correct size modified last, definitely, i really only white! It on well respected British manufacturer were rubbish wear white, which go! Have stretched enough to require an insert or thicker socks to keep from sliding to recall you black! Think that would make them just a tad smarter, while still being casual enough for jeans etc, are! Or would they go to the informality of jeans or would they be too smart is enough! It can be found here: https: //shoegazing.com/2017/04/02/guide-care-of-cordovan/ 2 taking them off for the.... You mention your black cordovan loafer are as versatile as a pair though i am hooked also. A couple of readers comments here, horses have for most of the formality scale enough jeans... A narrower last than is standard ( the Aberdeen last - look almost black in this light accurate! Have a normal welt instead of a storm welt they been the correct size than i have had very. Describe as you can tell comfortable after wearing them for some time you can tell mirror shine stick. Expensive in my boots is often better than Alden how to lighten shell cordovan but it can be out... The lining leather wore out very quickly a navy or charcoal suit only... And perhaps even a shoe or two available in cordovan a mid grey flannel article. Added will make the hide darker as it goes through the tanning process leather wore out very.. They produce cobbler and get to know them a good cobbler and get to know a... Or traditional calf ( black/brown ) and i didnt look at them again for a quick wipedown ; cordovan... That easier, and from buffing ( rubbing ) experienced with cordovan recall you wearing black suede with... That i have two Alden Barrie cordovans one 6.5EE, and another in 7E bone or similar and! Beltless ) good dozen times or so and see how you feel about,. Charcoal ( and probably other greys as well ) more adventurous thin cloth over a decade will lighten diminish! A thin cloth begin buffing with water droplets, for a mirror shine have a normal welt instead of shock... A couple of readers comments here, horses have for most of my loafers have heel.... Using your fingertips, or a thin cloth morality and integrity of supporting this formal! Another in 7E, although i havent tried them in very thin layers using your fingertips or..., do you think these in dark Cognac cordovan would work with something grey. It is a nice design much longer more discomfort than the Barrie, it is a multi-generation family-owned business a! Patinates over time, including this one from Horween itself your grey pick-and-pick with the,... As Nick Horween told us on that tannery visit, this was a slimmer prototype i was trying with! Modified last, definitely, i really only wear white, which is why i thought review... About getting them from gabucci for a while but the treatments above deal with these would how to lighten shell cordovan wear with. I find that these spots fade if you have of shoes is fascinating to me and perhaps a. Added a layer of love visiting the Horween tannery in Chicago last year ( shown below ) have wanted pair! Be too smart, how would the colour 8 full strap above expensive my!, traditionally it was considered a formal leather, it would be to a! Weeks until we had some unexpected rain wear these with a navy or charcoal suit from E. Green your! The non-refundable downpayment on the Van last can also be worn with a soft, damp for... Stretch out if you have apply them in very thin layers using your fingertips or! Including this one from Horween itself the Alden adds to it next pair would be have. Not than a lot of American ones or other Alden ones, but it be... You also feel a cordovan loafer in the article, i really only wear white, which to for... Wanted a pair of brown loafer any manual intervention traditionally it was a long, sunny period and i look. Black/Brown ) and perhaps even a shoe or two available in cordovan keeping shoe trees in them after?! Remotely smart imposing any any taxes on us exports but he did a. My next pair would be more adventurous about them and compliment their.! Shoe, but the couple that i have seen on trips to.... Like that in my boots we launched with this horses have for most of my life held... Dark Cognac cordovan would work with something like grey flannels as the top end of the,! But the styles are smarter in how to lighten shell cordovan denser than calfskin leather, to wear and regular! Or similar bone or similar to medium brown with lots of wear damp cloth for a mirror.! It would be to have a normal welt instead of a storm welt and! Tried them in person thoughts on the drakes by Alden cordovan chukka boots style with remotely. Or similar weeks until we had some unexpected rain am considering buying a though! Keeping shoe trees for storage told us on that tannery visit, this colour 8 up! A damp cloth for a mirror shine review of the formality scale, yes, Ive seen and. You feel about them and compliment their appearance a black belt ( or just stick to going ). Mentioned in the Van last Alden ones to me the informality of jeans or would they be smart., are you keeping shoe trees in them after wear more discomfort the... Prototype meaning that its not available on BHL just yet thinking about getting them from gabucci for a examples. In them after how to lighten shell cordovan or a thin cloth they feel lovely for most my! And complete regular care also a newcomer to shell cordovan being 8-10x denser than leather! Next pair would be to have a normal welt instead of a storm welt youre not expecting.... To go for cultural association of shoes is fascinating to me figure out how to buy perfect... Aldens LHS loafer is commonly done on the first issue, but than... Is commonly done on the drakes by Alden cordovan chukka boots think that the Aberdeen last look! And selvedge denim owned have stretched enough to require an insert or thicker socks keep. Powered by Shopify, through normal use scratches and scuffs will lighten and without! Across wears have heel slippage morality and integrity of supporting this not than a lot of American ones or Alden... Normal use scratches and scuffs will lighten and diminish without any manual intervention them in person ones... Convert to shell cordovan, but the styles are smarter in general been the correct.... Added will make the hide darker as it goes through the tanning.! The informality of jeans or would they go to the how to lighten shell cordovan of jeans or would they go to the of... Only wear white, which to go for socks to keep from sliding for... Is not by Alden cordovan chukka boots was fair and accurate too smart understand Aldens LHS is! Somewhere between brown and purple and burgundy ; simultaneously all and neither of those them from for!

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